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In Soils 101 we learn soil is composed of three particle sizes: clay, silt and sand. An ideal soil will have all three particle sizes, which helps with water draining (the larger sand particles) as well as retention (the small clay particles), and allows root growth to take place. On the other hand, an ideal soil doesn't have them in equal parts. What you really are looking for is 60-70% silt, and equal parts of sand and clay for the rest. This gives you a loamy soil.

Organic matter, decomposed plant and animal matter, is the fourth component. Typically, a good black soil is 3-5% organic matter. Remember, organic matter continually breaks down, and unlike the soil particles, changes yearly. Prairie grasses produce more organic matter, through their deeper root system and continual dieback each year, not to mention all those prairie fires centuries ago. Contrary to popular opinion, forest soils typically have a shallow organic layer as the roots don't go down as deep nor do the leaves produce as much biomass as prairie grasses.

It should be noted that certain pesticides have a tendency to bind with organic matter and clay particles. In those cases, the label usually indicate a higher application rate for control.

The broader definition of "soil" now includes any growing medium for a plant. In some cases, there may be no actual soil (sand, silt, clay) in the mix. These are technically called "soilless mixes" but many still refer to them as soil. High concentration of organic products such as bark, coconut fibers (sometimes called coconut coir), milled sphagnum peat moss, and/or plain peat may actually substitute for soil particles. Finely milled compost also can be sold as a soilless mix. To these mixes, vermiculite and perlite is often added, as well as coarse sand.

These specialized loose growing media facilitate root growth, which can lead to faster top growth. The downside is they can dry out quicker and don't retain as high a nutrient level, meaning you'll have to water and fertilize more. Peat mosses can hold water, but often are difficult to wet. In containers, particularly on hot summer days, you may have to water daily to keep plants from wilting. You also may need to fertilize weekly with a one-quarter-strength water-soluble fertilizer or monthly at normal strength as the frequent watering can leach nutrients from the mix. On the other hand, unless there is poor drainage in the container itself, it's hard to overwater, though not impossible.

Do you have a sump pump in your home? You may, or you may not, depending on the area in which you live. If you’re in an area where flooding is likely, the water table is high, or where rapidly melting snow or sudden heavy rainstorms are common, chances are you have one in your home. It doesn’t take much water to cause thousands of dollars of damage, and if you have a damp basement, mold can be a serious problem. A good sump pump can be worth its weight in gold. In some places, these pumps are a requirement and are installed in all new homes.

What is a sump pump?
Sump pumps, as the name implies, are pumps located in your basement or crawlspace, and are designed to prevent excess rain or ground water from entering the house. While there are portable versions, most residential sump pumps are installed in pits, called sump pits, and help to keep your basement dry by pumping the water out of the pit, away from your house.

How does a sump pump work?
A sump pump is a normally installed in the lowest part of your basement, or in a crawlspace. A hole is cut in the concrete floor, and the pump is placed in the sump pit (sometimes called a sump basin), which is normally 2 feet deep and 18 inches across. A pipe is attached, which then runs up, and out of the house, and releases the water several feet away from the foundation. The pipe usually has a “check valve” which prevents water from flowing back into the pit.

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